Borrowdale Camping

  A month or so ago i went camping with a small group of friends up near Keswick in the lake District.  Despite the flies and the dodgy weather we had a great time (especially since Jess had taken it upon herself to buy more meat than any couple could ever require).  Camping in the Borrowdale Valley is very peaceful as its basically a massive cul-de-sac bounded on all sides by hills and mountains.

  I had decided to take my Bronica SQ-A kit with me as i love it and Jess had bought me a huge Tamrac bag to keep it all in for our anniversary and i wanted to put it through its paces.  I really wanted to get some good mountain shots using some black and white but i brought a few colour rolls too for some general shooting.  Saturday morning was spent relaxing at the (very midgie'd) campsite.  The sun was shining and the bacon was tasty so i decided to load up some Fuji 64T II which i haD won on Ebay some time ago but never shot.  I got 15 rolls for an absolute bargain price and now seemed like a good time to use one.

  Later on we decided to go on a nice walk up the mountains (i forget the name of the one we went up).  Let me tell you now, medium format kits are heavy.  Especially when on a long hike up a big hill.  But i persevered, stopping to take a few shots when the light was right and the composition seemed good.  It was nice to just stop and take my time setting up the shot, choose what settings i wanted to use and think about how i wanted the final print to look.  We stopped just short of the summit as some were getting tired.  On the way back down my friend Keir and i lagged behind to shoot some photos of the river we were passing.  We found a really interestingly-shaped tree and fallen log that we spent some time shooting (im still working on the tree print-it is proving to be difficult to get it to look how i want it to) before re-joining our group shortly thereafter.

  All in all it was a really nice weekend and i had great fun shooting these 2 rolls.  I find it very peaceful to be on my own sometimes, taking my time and just shooting photos.

  I havent finished printg all my landscapes yet but here's my cross processed 64T II photos for you to look at.  I'm pretty chuffed with how they came out as a little research before-hand showed they tend to go very green/blue indeed but i think the colour cast on these is quite nice.  What do you reckon?

How To: Light-Proof a Darkroom on a Budget

  I haven’t posted in a long time – i have been spending the last month or so setting up my darkroom and working through my backlog of negatives that i want printing.  I do plan on shooting some film again soon but at the moment i can’t seem to tear myself away from the enlarger.  Im sure ill scan my prints soon and make a blog about them.

  Anyway, to the point!  Im not the richest man in the world at the moment as my wife is currently off work sick, so were on a reduced income.  The only way i got my darkroom kit was because i sold some of my old music equipment that i wasn’t using anymore and the seller only wanted a very small amount for it (it was a ridiculous bargain considering all the gear i got).  Anyway, after buying my darkroom kit i needed a simple, low-cost way of light-proofing the spare room so i could print without worrying about fogging the paper.  I should say that my spare room consists of one door and one tall window so it wasn’t too big a project.

  I spent a few hours online (in work time, obviously) looking for solutions which others had found.  Now there’s a lot of information online about light-proofing – some people suggesting draught excluders, felt, and even dedicated blackout material.  I didn’t feel that any of these solutions were for me though as i live in a rented house and i didn’t want to do any nailing or screwing.

  In the end i hit upon a solution that has worked really well for me so far and cost £3 to setup.  If you go to B&Q or any other DIY type store you can pick up these rubble sacks:

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/building-materials/tarpaulins-sheets-sacks/sacks/B-and-Q-Rubble-Sacks-Pack-Of-10-Black-535mm-x-820mm-9273085

I remember using them a few years ago for some garden work i was doing.  They’re thick, and most importantly black.  I bought a bag of 10 and then all i needed to do was head home and gaffer tape the bags over my window.  There was still some light soaking through even though the window was covered so i taped another layer of bags over to create a double layer.  At this point you need to make sure that there’s no light leaking through from your gaffer tape - make sure you press it down firmly onto your wall.  I decided to keep the curtain over the window as an extra layer of defence.

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  There wasn’t much light coming in through the door but it definitely needed protecting.  I remembered i still had a box of curtains that were left in the house by the previous tenants when we moved in so i dug one out.  All along the top of the curtain were hoops for the curtain rail to go through.  I hammered a tack into the top-left and top-right of the door frame and hung the curtain on them using the hoops.  Although some light still seeps through its fine as i ran some tests and my paper hasn’t fogged at all.

  So there you have it – a simple, removable and cheap way to light-proof a room.  I just thought i would post this in case anyone was having similar difficulties to me in getting setup.  As always if you have any questions just contact me on the blog.  Happy printing!

Rides, Reserves and Rodinal

  What better activity to do on a sunny Sunday afternoon than go on a lovely bike ride?  It was our first wedding anniversary earlier in May and one of the gifts i got my wife was an old Raleigh bike.  I stripped it down, sprayed it up, stuck a wicker basket on the front and re-assembled it.  I wasn’t sure how well it would go down with her as she had a nasty accident on a bike when she was younger and has feared riding ever since.  All credit to her she got out and now she loves it!  

  As part of the ongoing Guild celebrations in Preston the council have decided to create the Guild Wheel which connects new and old cycle paths around Preston to create a 21 mile ring of green and pleasant roadway.  Fortunately this wheel passes right outside our house so we decided to check some of it out.  

  We were having such a pleasant time that we went 4 miles and ended up at Brockholes Nature Reserve.  If you’re ever in the area it’s well worth a visit as there are lots of hides to watch wildlife and a lovely floating visitor centre and restaurant.  We parked the bikes up and had a little wander around – fortunately jess had brought one of her other anniversary presents, a Holga 120 CFN.  We had great fun pottering about and shooting a roll of Tri-X 400.  We had a drink and some Chorley cakes and then set off on the ride home.  After riding 8 miles we were pretty wrecked (due to general unfitness) and spent the rest of the evening working our way through the Lost dvd boxset (what the heck is going on on that island?!?!).

  Monday night after work i developed the film in Rodinal (i had to give a little push in development as i thought the film may be a little underexposed) for about 13 minutes and left it hanging to dry.  A couple of hours later we were in the darkroom getting ready to print.  We decided to work on 2 shots from the roll which make a nice little mini-set together.  After making some test strips we had figured out what exposure we wanted to work on and what dodging and burning was required.  An hour or so later and we had 2 prints that we were very happy with.  Jess loves to print and i must confess that there is something rather exciting about placing some paper in a tray and watching an image slowly develop.

  Were planning on going out again this weekend (weather permitting) so hopefully we will take some more shots and have a pleasant ride.

(The scans dont really do the prints justice i'm afraid)

How To: Home Develop C41 Negatives

  Yes, its another post about developing.  Im in a very darkroom frame of mind at the minute as im currently in the middle of getting an enlarger setup in my spare room (going to look and probably buy tomorrow, yay).  Im thinking back to when i first started getting setup developing my own film and how i got lots of help from various forums but it still took me a long time to get all the information in required and to find a process that works for me.  So i thought that i would use my blog to pass on some knowledge to others, as well as my usual phototrip posts.

  So - this post is about my C41 process.  Unlike most others i started off doing C41 processing before i did black and white.  Most people start on black and white as its done (generally) at room temperature and there is more rom for error (yes, i know hardcore b&w enthusiasts will disagree, but lets just keep going).  However, many that get used to black and white seem to be under the impression that C41 is very complex and near impossible to do at home - but that just isnt the case.

  There are a few ways to do it.  Poeple get good results just getting a tub full of water and heating it up and if you fancy that route (lets face it, its cheaper) then go for it.  Personally i use a rotary processer - a Jobo CPE-2 to be precise.

  These are readily available on Ebay and all they are is a water bath with temperature control and a rotary motor which agitates your tank for you.  Some better (i.e. more expensive) models also have a lift which let you add and remove chemicals to the film tank without having to lift it off the rotary.  I find though that the CPE-2 easily meets my needs.

  As for chemicals i am a huge fan of the Rollei Digibase C41 kits.  I tend to buy from AG Photographic who are based in the UK as i have always had excellent servcie from them and they tend to be a little cheaper than everywhere else.  These kits come in a variety of sizes but i tend to go for the 1L kit which lets me do 4 batches of 250ml - around 20 films altogether.  These kits also have a long shelf life (when unmixed) which i find very handy as i often have a month or 2 where i dont have any films to process.  The only drawback is that the instructions that come with these kits arent the best.  There are washes missing and personally i think some of the times are off for processing which is why it took me so long to get my procedure nailed.

  So, what is my procedure?  Well, the Jobo tank i use allows for 1 x 120 film (or 2 x 35mm) to be processed (well, technically 2 x 120 films can go onto one reel but i dont like to do that).  I prefer to do my films one at a time simply for quality control - if something goes wrong during developing then i havent ruined multiple films.  I fill my Jobo with water (preferably warm as it means that you dont waste time and electricity heating cold water) and leave it to heat up to around 38C (C41 should be processed at 37.8 +/-5C).  I like to leave it to heat up for about an hour to make sure the temperature has stabilised.  Whilst the water bath is heating up i mix my chemicals following the instrucitons included with the kit.  The instructions say that they solutions must be mixed with water at 49C, and i am fortunate in that i can hit that temperature with the hot water from my taps.  If you cant then boil a kettle, pour the water into a jug and wait for it to cool down to around 49C.  The kit comes with multiple syringes - you need to make sure that you use one for fixer, one for stabiliser, one for bleach etc.  Use permanent marker to label them otherwise you will end up cross contaminating your chemicals.  Unfortunately there arent enough syringes included in the kit for 1 per chemical so i use the same syringe for parts A,B and C of the developer.  Some people may be renounce this but it works ok for me so i do it.

  So, you have measured out your chemicals and mixed them with water.  Pour them into their bottles, stir them well and put them into your water bath.  Whilst you wait for your chemicals to settle to 37.8C load your film onto your reels (if you dont know how to do this or even what im on about check youtube, theres lots of videos there that will help you out).  You're all set now and ready to develop (once your chemicals have heated up).  After about an hour dip a thermometer into your developer and check the temperature is stable at around 38C.  You will also need some jugs of water at around 38C too for washing yourn film later.  I like to fill a jug with a anrrow bottom and stand it in the spare space in my Jobo bath so the temperature keeps up.

  Once you're all heated up put your developing tank onto the rotary and set it going at full speed for 5 minutes.  This brings the tank and film up to a similar temperature to your chemicals which will stop your film being 'shocked' when you suddenly pour in some hot fluids.  Some people like to prewash their film.  They heat up the tank and then fill it with water for 3 minutes or so.  I used to do it but have personally gotten far better results by not doing so so i am dropping this step from my developing procedure.  If you google it you'll see a tremendous amount of debate covering this topic with everyone having a differing opinion about what effects prewashing/soaking has on the film.  If you do choose to prewash dont be worried when the water comes out a vivid colour like purple or green, this is the the anti-halation layer and dye being washed off your film.

  After 5 minutes it is time to start pouring in your chemicals.  Start your stopwatch and pour in your developer.  Put the lid on the tank and rotate the tank by hand 3 times so as to get coverage of the developer over the film, give the tank a solid tap on the floor/work surface to disoldge any air bubbles (remember this - it will make your film easier to scan later) then put the tank onto the rotary.

  My developing procedure is as follows:

Preheat 5:00
Developer 3:15
Bleach 6:30
Wash 1 3:00 (6 washes of 30s)
Fixer 6:30
Wash 2 6:00 (6 washes of 1m)
Stabiliser 1:30 (to be done at room temperature)
Dry

  With each step allow 7 seconds or so to pour out the first chemical and pour in the next eg pour the developer out at 3:08 and pour the bleach in at 3:15.  The washes are important steps but they are not included on the Rollei instructions.  The first wash should come after the bleach and consist of 6 changes of water every 30 seconds.  This makes sure that the tank is fully removed of bleach before you pour in your fixer.  The second wash comes after fixing and consists of 6 changes of water every 1 minute.  Again, this stops the stabiliser being contaminated by fixer.  Some people wash between developer and bleach but you really shouldnt do that as it can be detrimental to the process.

  Stabilising should be done at room temperature.  When you come to stabilise just pour it into your tank and rotate it by hand for the required amount of time.  I used to stabilise at 37.8C but i was advised by a fellow processor to do it at room temperature; to be honest though i cant see much of a difference in my negatives.

  The above steps should take you around half an hour to complete.  Once you're done you can take the lid off your tank and remove your film.  The film should be covered in foam from the stabiliser - dont wash this off.  Just hang your film up to dry naturally (in as dust-free an environment as possible).  Once its dry take it to your scanner or your enlarger and see how it looks.

  This tutorial is by no means definitive.  This is just how i currently develop my C41 negatives/cross processed slide films at home.  Im sure as time goes on i will home my skills in processing and change my process as i see fit.  If you have any quesitons feel free to post on this blog and ill be sure to answer them.