Showing posts with label fixer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fixer. Show all posts

Wednesday, 21 May 2014

How To: Make a Print Washer on a Budget

  Ah the early stirs of summer, the time when a man decides to re-open his toolbox and turns his mind to possibility.

  I'm tired of washing my prints in the kitchen sink.  It's just too small and i can't leave it alone because the prints sink to the bottom, block the tap; the sink fills and my kitchen starts to flood.  And woe betide me if i decide to print some 12 x 16 paper!


  Suffering from the same problem?  Lo, read on to see how you can make an inexpensive (really, it cost me about £20 in total) print washer.

  First off, materials.  Here's what you will need:

        • Plastic storage container (any size you like),
        • 2 x 2 metre lengths of plastic waste pipe (any diameter you fancy),
        • Some 90 degree joints that will fit your pipe (get about 8),
        • Hosing/tubing (approximately 2 metres),
        • Drill
        • Saw
        • sandpaper
        • Glue gun/silicon sealant
 So how do we build this washer i hear you cry?  Keep reading:

Step 1

  Grab your storage box (mine cost about £11 and can easily fit in 12 x 16 prints) and drill 2 holes roughly the same diameter as your waste pipe just an inch or so below the top of the container towards the left and right hand side.  To do this you may have to use a hole cutter (its like a round saw which you mount on your drill).  Unfortunately i didn't have a hole cutter the right size so i drilled my holes bigger.

Step 2

  Cut a small section off your pipe and feed it through the hole on your nearest side, push on a 90 degree joint (making sure you sandpaper down the edge you have just sawed) and then attach a vertical section of pipe which extends just shy of the base of the container.

Step3

   Now do exactly the same with the other hole, but this time saw the tip of the pipe at about 45 degrees to get a spout.


Step4

  Now go back to your first length of piping and measure along the base of your container then cut a length of pipe just a little less than the length you measured.  Smooth off the sawed edges of the pipe with sandpaper and attach it to the pipe you already have.

  At this stage i tried attaching a length of hose to cover the base of the container but it didn't quite work out.  Instead, keep attaching lengths of pipe and joints until you get good all round coverage along the base of the container.  You dont need to cap off the last piece, this will serve as an outlet for the water which flows through the system.

Not like this!

Like this!
Step 5

  Now take your drill and (using a small drill bit) drill holes every 2 inches or so apart along the entire length of the tubing which is sat in the base of the container.

Step 6

  Retreat to the bathroom (or wherever you're planning on setting up this washer) and check out your taps.  If you have the kind of taps you can just push hosing onto then all well and good, connect a length of hosing from the first piece of piping onto your taps.  This will mean water will flow in, down the vertical length and through the loop you have made in the base of your tub; flowing out from the last length to be picked up by the second vertical pipe which will act as a siphon.

  Now, my taps are mixers which means i cant push any hosing over them.  But, i can unscrew the shower and push the hosing onto the screw attachment (yay).

Like so!
Step 6

  Attach a length of hosing onto the second pipe and point it plugwards.  Turn your tap on and you should see water spurting out through the holes you have drilled and the container will start to fill.

  You should see some good agitation in the water as the container starts to fill (which is exciting isn't it).

Step 7

  Now, remember i drilled my holes for the pipe inlets bigger than the pipe?  I'm going to need to seal that up.  Take some plastic (e.g. from a bottle) and cut out a square which more than covers the holes you cut.  Cut out a hole as close to the diameter of the pipe as possible and use a glue gun or some silicon to attach the plastic to the container, with the pipe running through it.  If you don't do this then the water will just leak out of the holes you made and the second pipe won't act as a siphon.

Step 8

  Once that's all done you will have to ma the tap for a while to get the right flow.  Keep adjusting the amount of water coming out of the tap until what's going in matches what's heading out of the second pipe.  It helps to drill a small hole in the top of the second pipe and stick a match in it.  The match can be used to increase and decrease outflow.  Preferably you don't want the water to flow out over the top of the container.

Step 9

  The final step is to make something to support your prints.  It should be easy enough to source some acrylic or perspex sheets, cut them to size, attach them to some rods and put that in the tank.  As i already have a Paterson drying rack, however, i decided to use that.  These are cheap and come up relatively often on Ebay.



  And that's about it.  It's not the most hi-tech thing ever created but it's cheap and cheerful and should wash your prints sufficiently (i can't guarantee that of course).  It's certainly better than flooding my kitchen!

  The way it works is that the water flows in and goes through the loop at the base.  The drill holes allow water to spurt out which agitates the water, causing motion around the prints.  The water picks up the fixer and, as fixer-laden water is denser than clean water, it sinks to the bottom of the container.  It should then be picked up by the outflow pipe and siphoned out down the drain.  Science!  I haven't technically finished mine yet as i haven't sealed up the original drill holes so my siphon isn't really working but it will.  IT WILL I SAY!  Just for fun, here's a super-entertaining video of mine showing this mega-agitating washer in action (caution: may cause your mind to blow, it's that exciting):


  So that's it.  A print washer for those of us on a budget.  Those hundreds of pounds you have now just saved can go on something better like film, paper, chemicals or (woe of woes) rent!  As always keep printing and ill see you again soon.



Thursday, 5 January 2012

How To: Home Develop Black and White Film

  I thought i would do a tutorial on home developing black and white film as when i was starting out just over a year ago it took me a long time to get all the info together that i needed and its nice to give something back.  Hope you find this helpful.

Equipment

Stopwatch/timer
Film changing bag (the biggest you can afford)
3 x 50/100ml meausring cylinders
2 x plastic water bottles
2x plastic jugs (just some cheap supermarket ones will do)
Developer (i like to use Rodinal as it lasts forever and you only use small quantities).
Stop bath  (i use Ilford Ilfostop)
Fixer (i use Ilford Rapid Fix)
Wetting agent (i use Kodak Photo-Flo)
Developing tank and at least 1 reel (i use a Paterson system 4 tank)
Accurate thermometer (needs to be able to read 20oC)
Film clips

Background

  Im not going to discuss loading your film onto a reel, there a plenty of videos no youtube for this kind of thing.  Basically your film goes onto your reel inside your changin bag and then gets loaded into your tank.  Once this is done you're now ready to start developing.

  First you'll need to mix up your developer.  Now, Rodinal is very versatile as you can mix it in different concentrations which will produce different results on your negative.  The most used ratios are 1:25, 1:50 and 1:100, sometimes 1:200 is used.  The smaller the ratio the bigger the contrast that will be produced eg 1:25 will produce more contrast than 1:50.  The ratio means that for every 25/50/100ml of water you have you add 1ml of Rodinal.  So if your tank takes 500ml of solution and you want a 1:50 ratio you will mix 10ml of Rodinal with 490ml of Water .

  So, measure out your Rodinal using one of your measuring cyclinders and pour it into one of your jugs.  Measure out the water (you can use the same cylinder) and add that to the jug and then mix it (you can use your thermometer to do this).  Once you have mixed your developer you repeat with your stop bath and your fixer.  There is a fixed ratio for these and this will be printed on the bottle of each chemical.

  Once you have completed this step you should have 3 jugs, one with developer, one with stop bath and one with fixer.

  Next you will need to find out how long you must develop your film for using the ratio of developer you have chosen.  The best source for this information can be found on the massive dev chart here: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php  Basically you tell it what developer youre using with what film and it will tell you the times to develop for certain ratios.  For instance if i want to develop some Ilford HP5+ shot at 400iso in a 1:25 mix of rodinal the chart tells me that for 120 film i should develop for 6 minutes.  You will need to keep an eye on temperature.  20oC is ideal so you may need to warm your chemicals a little if you're developing in a cold room  If you're a few degrees off then follow this link http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=87&t=Developing+Black+and+white+film and at the bottom of the page you will see a link to a temperature compensation chart.  Use this to determine developing times at alternative temperatures.

Procedure 

  Ok, our chemicals are all mixed and we have got all our times together.  Now to begin.  I like to start with a prewash of my film.  Some people do it, some dont; both get good results so its really up to you.  I shoot 120 film so i prewash for 5 minutes.  Get 500ml of water at around 20oC and pour it into your tank (holding your tank at about a 45 degree angle to reduce air bubbles).   Once its all in put the lid on and shake your tank.  Rotate it, shake it, spin it.  Really work it hard to make sure that the water covers every part of the film.  Do this for 1 minute then pour out the water.  It willprobably come ou a greenish blue colour.  Pour in another 500ml of clean water and shake again.  Do this for 5 minutes.

  After 5 minutes has passed and you have poured out the last of the water you are ready to pour in your developer.  Agin, angle the tank as this reduces air bubbles.  Put the lid on and rotate the tank vertically 3 times whilst turning it horizontally (this makes sure the whole of the film gets a quick covering of developer).  Tap the tank firmly on the floor to release any trapped air bubbles and then stand the tank on the floor.  When 1 minute has passed give it 3 more rotations and a little tap.  Reapeat this for the length of time you have been told to develop for.  I should tell you here that the more you agitate, the more grain you get.

  After your developing is done you can pour the liquid from the tank down the sink and pour in your stop bath.  Ilfostop only needs to be in the tank 10 seconds so once youve got the lid on agitate the tank for 10 sec and then pour the liquid out back into your jug, DO NOT DISCARD IT because you can reuse it.

  Now its time to add your fixer.  Pour it into the tank in the usual way and you need to constantly agitate for 3 minutes (note, 3 minutes is for Ilford Rapid Fix - if you buy anotherfixer follow the guidelines provided by the manufacturer).  After 3 minutes pour your fixer back into your jug.  Again, this can be reused so DO NOT DISCARD.

  Now it is time to wash the film again so add 500ml of clean water and agitate constantly.  After 1 minute pour out the water and some more fresh and repeat agitation.  Do this for 5 minutes.  On your last wash you will need to add a tiny amount of wetting agent.  Kodak Photo-Flo is highly recommended.  Add 2ml of it to your final rinse and agitate for about 20-30 seconds.  Pour the liquid away and open up your tank.  You should have a fully developed negative.  Remove the film from the reel and hang it up to dry using your clips.  Pour your stop bath and fixer into your plastic bottles and store them away ready for your next development.

  So to put it in a more bulletpoint form:

1) Prewash (constant agitation) - 5 minutes
2) Developer (Agitate for around 15s - 3 inversions at each minute of development) times from massive dev chart
3) Stop Bath - 10 seconds
4) Fixer - 3 minutes (constant agitation)
5) Wash - 5 minutes (constant agitation)
6) Wetting Agent - 20s
7) Hang to dry

  And thats it.  Any questions then feel free to comment on this page and ill get back to you.  All the black and white shots on this blog have been developed with this method so i can assure you it works.  I will be doing another blog soon about push/pull processing and also one about stand developing which is another method of development that takes longer but is simpler.  Hope this has helped.