By now you're probably fed up of seeing me post landscape after landscape. I'm sorry but that's pretty much all i've been shooting lately. Not even a shipwreck has crossed my path in the last couple of rolls i've shot. I did, however, shoot a test roll when my wife got her new Pentax 67 (yes, i have converted her from digital - jackpot)! There was one frame on it that i decided would potentially look good lithed.
So, i loaded up the enlarger, focused, chose some ancient Foma Neobrom 211N paper and set about making a test strip. Imagine my surprise when the print actually developed well. This paper is old. Really old. It's in a paper packet and even the lightproof sleeve is paper! Surprising, then that it developed so well. In fact, it developed so well i decided not to lith it and just make a straight print. Fortunately the paper i had was the right grade (2 i think) and so i chose an exposure, burned each edge for 1 stop extra to provide a nice border and developed in Ethol LPD 1:4. The keen-eyed among you may note that this is a cold tone paper and i'm developing it in warm tone developer. Deliberate! The final print gave of a lovely sharp silvery tone which was a delight to behold (until i obliterated it with toner that is). As always my hand ended up reaching for the selenium toner. I gave it a few minutes in 1:5 toner until it started taking on a warm brown tone, then i slipped it into some bleach (after a wash of course) and gave it a slight sepia hit in the highlights. This resulted in the final print:
Yes - rectangular, not square! It's not one of my greatest images but i think it's ok. Sometimes it's nice just to be able to blast out a quick print without having to go round and round sheet after sheet after sheet of paper (speaking of which - i have a post coming up soon which covers an absolute demon of a print).
So what do we learn? Sometimes it's nice to print something simple and easy to give yourself a confidence boost and to get those juices flowing again!
Showing posts with label warmtone. Show all posts
Showing posts with label warmtone. Show all posts
Monday, 16 June 2014
Tuesday, 10 June 2014
The Thoughtful Cliff
So despite saying in my previous post that i was going to update more i haven't updated in over two weeks! Sorry! But, good news - i have made my first print from my recent holiday to the north east coast of England, and here it be:
I shot this on a very sunny day in the town of Saltburn. It is printed onto Ilford MGIV FB Warmtone paper using Ethol LPD diluted 1:4 and toned using selenium 1:9 and a bit of sepia. This is my first time using a non-neutral developer and i have to say i loved it. If you are unfamiliar with LPD it is a wonderful developer which allows you to change tonality (not contrast) using dilution e.g. use it 1:1 for cool tones and around 1:4 for warmer tones (obviously tonality will depend very much on the paper you are using too).
I'm pretty pleased with this print, i really feel like i am starting to get into a rhythm and personal style with my printing.
I made this print using the split grade printing technique, as i have done with so many others. I did a soft exposure test strip, selected the best exposure for highlights (remembering to go a bit heavy as the sepia toning i had planned would lose a little highlight detail), then i did a hard exposure test strip and selected the best exposure for that (again, taking into account the added density that selenium toning would yield). It's always good to have a good think about toning either before printing or during proofing so that you can account for any lost/added density that may result form the toners you use (that reminds me - i should really do a few tutorials covering toning). I knew with this print that i wanted a selenium/sepia split so i deliberately overexposed the highlights and very slightly underexposed the shadows.
So, after making a base print of my combined soft and hard exposures it was time to think about dodging and burning. The cliff was looking pretty blocked up so i did a bit of a burn on the soft exposure and a dodge on the hard exposure - this evened out the contrast a little whilst maintaining the "pop" of the cliff. Then i did a very slight hard exposure burn on the sky to add a little extra depth to the clouds (the use of a grad filter at the time of exposure had already helped darken the sky to a pleasing tone). Then i did a bit of an edge burn around the sides and base of the print to draw the eye into the centre (i did this on both the soft and hard exposure). I think this really works on the base of the print as if the sand was all the same mid tone the eye would be drawn off the bottom of the image.
To finish off the print i did some very very light bleaching (followed by a fix) of the cloud highlights and the band of light across the sand (i used potassium ferricyanide/potassium bromide bleach from a sepia kit diluted 1:9). This helped add a bit more "pop" to the highlights but i had to be carfeul that this combined with sepia toning would not cause any highlight detail to be lost.
After a good wash (in my newly constructed print washer) i bleached back the print until the upper midtones were just starting to be affected and then toned in standard sepia toner. After a quick wash i then transferred the print into selenium toner mixed 1:5 for a few minutes which added a nice dark purplish hue to the print. I then did a final wash and left the print to dry before scanning.
I'm really pleased with how this print turned out and i am loving Ethol LPD as a print developer. I'm going to try some coldtone papers with it soon and a stronger dilution and see what effects i can get. In the meantime i've still got plenty more frames to be printing from my trip away.
I hope some of you have found this post useful and, as always, keep printing.
I shot this on a very sunny day in the town of Saltburn. It is printed onto Ilford MGIV FB Warmtone paper using Ethol LPD diluted 1:4 and toned using selenium 1:9 and a bit of sepia. This is my first time using a non-neutral developer and i have to say i loved it. If you are unfamiliar with LPD it is a wonderful developer which allows you to change tonality (not contrast) using dilution e.g. use it 1:1 for cool tones and around 1:4 for warmer tones (obviously tonality will depend very much on the paper you are using too).
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I like to think of the clouds as little thought bubbles coming out of the cliff. |
I made this print using the split grade printing technique, as i have done with so many others. I did a soft exposure test strip, selected the best exposure for highlights (remembering to go a bit heavy as the sepia toning i had planned would lose a little highlight detail), then i did a hard exposure test strip and selected the best exposure for that (again, taking into account the added density that selenium toning would yield). It's always good to have a good think about toning either before printing or during proofing so that you can account for any lost/added density that may result form the toners you use (that reminds me - i should really do a few tutorials covering toning). I knew with this print that i wanted a selenium/sepia split so i deliberately overexposed the highlights and very slightly underexposed the shadows.
So, after making a base print of my combined soft and hard exposures it was time to think about dodging and burning. The cliff was looking pretty blocked up so i did a bit of a burn on the soft exposure and a dodge on the hard exposure - this evened out the contrast a little whilst maintaining the "pop" of the cliff. Then i did a very slight hard exposure burn on the sky to add a little extra depth to the clouds (the use of a grad filter at the time of exposure had already helped darken the sky to a pleasing tone). Then i did a bit of an edge burn around the sides and base of the print to draw the eye into the centre (i did this on both the soft and hard exposure). I think this really works on the base of the print as if the sand was all the same mid tone the eye would be drawn off the bottom of the image.
To finish off the print i did some very very light bleaching (followed by a fix) of the cloud highlights and the band of light across the sand (i used potassium ferricyanide/potassium bromide bleach from a sepia kit diluted 1:9). This helped add a bit more "pop" to the highlights but i had to be carfeul that this combined with sepia toning would not cause any highlight detail to be lost.
After a good wash (in my newly constructed print washer) i bleached back the print until the upper midtones were just starting to be affected and then toned in standard sepia toner. After a quick wash i then transferred the print into selenium toner mixed 1:5 for a few minutes which added a nice dark purplish hue to the print. I then did a final wash and left the print to dry before scanning.
I'm really pleased with how this print turned out and i am loving Ethol LPD as a print developer. I'm going to try some coldtone papers with it soon and a stronger dilution and see what effects i can get. In the meantime i've still got plenty more frames to be printing from my trip away.
I hope some of you have found this post useful and, as always, keep printing.
Monday, 24 February 2014
Starting My Glencoe Prints
As mentioned at the end of the previous post i have been working on some prints from my recent trip away to Scotland. What with Blogger being such a temperamental website i haven't been able to upload any images for ages, but now, finally, i can! I have made two prints of the roll i shot so far and i really feel like they have been a huge step forward for me in my printing. I put a lot of time and effort into realising in print form what i saw in my mind at the time of exposure. In this post i will show you how i created each print and hopefully this may give you some ideas or maybe even some inspiration.
Making these prints i really got to grips with my new(ish) f-stop timer. I'm pretty sure i used every function on there - dry down compensation, split grade mode, dodging and burning programming
So, to the first print...
Cottage in Glencoe
Over the week i was away it transpired that i only had one day midweek in which to get over to Glencoe and take some pictures. I could spend a year up there and never run out of things to shoot, it's a truly remarkable place! Unfortunately when i woke up the weather was terrible. The cloud layer was super-low and didn't really have any form, it was just a grey mush. I decided to head out anyway, sod it, it might clear up later. As i got up to Rannoch Moor i hopped in and out of the car a few times to grab a few shots and move further up the road. Jess had lovingly decided to come with me and we brought Ellie (our puppy) along too, and she loved it. I've never seen a dog run so fast and be so excited to be outside!
As we made our way down the Glen we went around a sweeping left hand bend and i saw a large smooth valley which was catching the sun nicely. I parked up in a convenient layby, grabbed my gear and started walking, waving bye to Jess as she had decided she was tired and didn't want to step foot out of the car again! It turned out i was walking through a bit of a bog but i didn't mind as clever me had remembered to wear my waterproof sock liners (get some, thank me later). I took some time setting up the shot and finally exposed the frame (which i haven't yet printed). Then just off to the left a white cottage caught my eye, it was really standing out from the murky grey of the clouds so i decided to head closer and see if it was a workable shot. I found a nice vantage point, focused, metered and then exposed.
Upon my return home i developed the film (in Rodinal of course) and left it to dry. A few days later i freed up some time and made a contact sheet. I spotted quite a few frames which i liked the look of but this one seemed to be the best on the roll so i decided to have a go at it first.
I couldn't get into the darkroom to print for a while but Jess decided to go visit a friend for the day and so i took that as a sign to go print! I haven't really had a decent chance to fully get to grips with all the functions of my recently acquired RH Designs Stopclock Pro f-stop timer. i decided to put it through it's paces today and do some split grade printing. I setup the negative in the enlarger, focused, set the contrast grade to 00 and did my soft test sheet. I used to just use offcuts of paper for making test strips but i have found that because i am doing lots of dodging and burning to my prints these days a whole sheet makes it easier to deduce times for all parts of the image. My test sheets tend to go from around 5 seconds up in 1/6 of a stop intervals, if i need anymore i will just do a new one.
I chose the strip with a base exposure of 8.98 seconds because it gave tone to the snows on the mountain top. I knew i would want the cottage walls to be lighter but more on that later.
Next i did my grade 4 1/2 test sheet (i can't do grade 5 with the colour filters on my enlarger).
Again i chose the 8.98 second exposure time as it gave me good, deep blacks. I was happy with the contrast overall so i turned my attention to dodging and burning. I knew i wanted to lighten the cloud somewhat and darken the foreground to really made the cottage stand out. This is where offcuts of paper come in really handy - any dodging and burning times i cannot figure out from the test sheets i made earlier i can deduce using small strips of paper placed in the relevant parts of the image.
After much trial and error i got the dodging and burning times i wanted. During the soft exposure i dodged the sky for 3/4 of a stop and the trees to the right of the cottage received a 1/3 of a stop burn. Then the right, left and bottom edges of the print received an extra 1/4 of a stop each. Then i switched to the grade 4 1/2 filter and dodged the sky 1/3 of a stop. The trees received another 1/3 of a stop burn (if you don't do the same dodging/burning on the same part of the print with both filters then you change the contrast) and the bottom edge of the print received an extra 1/3 of a stop. The right edge then received 1/6 of a stop to balance it out whilst the cloud received 1/6 of a stop burn in a series of small up and down gradations of a rectangular piece of card. This added a slight gradational effect to the sky. Finally each corner got an extra 1/6 of a stop just to add a slight vignette. This left me with this:
I was close but the cottage wasn't quite popping enough. I brushed some dilute potassium ferricyanide/potassium bromide bleach over the cottage which lightened the highlights slightly and added extra pop. I re-fixed and then toned in selenium1:5 for 2 minutes. This gave me this print:
The selenium has added extra pop (I love selenium) but i wasn't quite happy with the print. I decided to go crazy and dig out the few sheets of warmtone paper i have, I felt that this print was worthy on going onto this expensive paper! I made an identical print and set the drydown compensation to 5% (drydown is the effect of fibre prints going darker when dry - a pain)! This time i fully toned in selenium (4:30). I did try pulling the print from the toner around at 2 minutes but it looked strange being a warm reddish colour all over with a grey sky on top. After all this work i was left with my final print which i think is my best print yet:
Kinlochleven Island
I decided to keep going and work on another print i thought could be good. This was taken whilst exploring around Glencoe. I went up a random road and ended up at the village of Kinlochleven. A lovely place that i'm pretty sure i could live in happily! It was raining pretty heavily when i was taking this but it was worth it as you'll see.
As before i decided to split grade print. I setup and made my soft test sheet:
I chose a base exposure time of 4 seconds and proceeded to make my hard exposure:
For the hard exposure i chose a base exposure of 16 seconds. I made a flat sheet of the two exposures together and came up with this:
Good but it needs some work. The top left corner is a bit dark and i want the final print to be darker and more ominous. I got to work figuring out what dodging and burning was required. During the soft exposure I added and extra 1 1/2 stops to the foreground and and extra 3/4 of a stop to the right, bottom and left edges of the print. I then switched to the hard exposure and dodged the top left corner for 1/3 of a stop and dodged the mountains in the distance on the right for 1 1/6 stop to balance them with the mountains on the right. I then added 1 5/6 to the sky and 1/2 a stop to the foreground. The top half of the sky then received and extra 1 1/2, the right corner got +1 stop and the bottom left and bottom right corners received an extra 1/3 of a stop. I then locally bleached the sky directly above the island with potassium ferricyanide/potassium bromide to emphasize the light coming from there.
After a dip in selenium i got this print which is much moodier and ominous:
I then switched to warmtone paper and made an identical print which is my final print (unfortunately when scanning i somehow cropped the very top of the print off - error):
I learnt a lot making these two prints. Firstly, it really pays to imagine what you want your final print to look like when you are exposing in camera. Secondly, it's good to make your test strips and rough prints then rest and come back to the final print at a later date, otherwise you rush to get it all done in one session and you don't get the best print you could have done. Thirdly, never underestimate the power of bleaching. Fourthly, warmtone paper is worth every penny. Fifthly, selenium toner remains the greatest thing in the world. Sixthly, Scotland is one heck of a place! Seventhly, and perhaps most importantly - never be afraid to get your camera out when it's mirky, grey, grim and wet.
Well i hope that's been interesting for some of you who read this blog (if indeed anyone does read this blog). I hope that my experiences will help you in some way. As always if you have any questions or comments then please feel free to get in touch - i love hearing from you all about your own printing and photography and i love learning new things from you all. Happy printing!
Making these prints i really got to grips with my new(ish) f-stop timer. I'm pretty sure i used every function on there - dry down compensation, split grade mode, dodging and burning programming
So, to the first print...
Cottage in Glencoe
Over the week i was away it transpired that i only had one day midweek in which to get over to Glencoe and take some pictures. I could spend a year up there and never run out of things to shoot, it's a truly remarkable place! Unfortunately when i woke up the weather was terrible. The cloud layer was super-low and didn't really have any form, it was just a grey mush. I decided to head out anyway, sod it, it might clear up later. As i got up to Rannoch Moor i hopped in and out of the car a few times to grab a few shots and move further up the road. Jess had lovingly decided to come with me and we brought Ellie (our puppy) along too, and she loved it. I've never seen a dog run so fast and be so excited to be outside!
As we made our way down the Glen we went around a sweeping left hand bend and i saw a large smooth valley which was catching the sun nicely. I parked up in a convenient layby, grabbed my gear and started walking, waving bye to Jess as she had decided she was tired and didn't want to step foot out of the car again! It turned out i was walking through a bit of a bog but i didn't mind as clever me had remembered to wear my waterproof sock liners (get some, thank me later). I took some time setting up the shot and finally exposed the frame (which i haven't yet printed). Then just off to the left a white cottage caught my eye, it was really standing out from the murky grey of the clouds so i decided to head closer and see if it was a workable shot. I found a nice vantage point, focused, metered and then exposed.
Upon my return home i developed the film (in Rodinal of course) and left it to dry. A few days later i freed up some time and made a contact sheet. I spotted quite a few frames which i liked the look of but this one seemed to be the best on the roll so i decided to have a go at it first.
I couldn't get into the darkroom to print for a while but Jess decided to go visit a friend for the day and so i took that as a sign to go print! I haven't really had a decent chance to fully get to grips with all the functions of my recently acquired RH Designs Stopclock Pro f-stop timer. i decided to put it through it's paces today and do some split grade printing. I setup the negative in the enlarger, focused, set the contrast grade to 00 and did my soft test sheet. I used to just use offcuts of paper for making test strips but i have found that because i am doing lots of dodging and burning to my prints these days a whole sheet makes it easier to deduce times for all parts of the image. My test sheets tend to go from around 5 seconds up in 1/6 of a stop intervals, if i need anymore i will just do a new one.
I chose the strip with a base exposure of 8.98 seconds because it gave tone to the snows on the mountain top. I knew i would want the cottage walls to be lighter but more on that later.
Next i did my grade 4 1/2 test sheet (i can't do grade 5 with the colour filters on my enlarger).
Again i chose the 8.98 second exposure time as it gave me good, deep blacks. I was happy with the contrast overall so i turned my attention to dodging and burning. I knew i wanted to lighten the cloud somewhat and darken the foreground to really made the cottage stand out. This is where offcuts of paper come in really handy - any dodging and burning times i cannot figure out from the test sheets i made earlier i can deduce using small strips of paper placed in the relevant parts of the image.
After much trial and error i got the dodging and burning times i wanted. During the soft exposure i dodged the sky for 3/4 of a stop and the trees to the right of the cottage received a 1/3 of a stop burn. Then the right, left and bottom edges of the print received an extra 1/4 of a stop each. Then i switched to the grade 4 1/2 filter and dodged the sky 1/3 of a stop. The trees received another 1/3 of a stop burn (if you don't do the same dodging/burning on the same part of the print with both filters then you change the contrast) and the bottom edge of the print received an extra 1/3 of a stop. The right edge then received 1/6 of a stop to balance it out whilst the cloud received 1/6 of a stop burn in a series of small up and down gradations of a rectangular piece of card. This added a slight gradational effect to the sky. Finally each corner got an extra 1/6 of a stop just to add a slight vignette. This left me with this:
I was close but the cottage wasn't quite popping enough. I brushed some dilute potassium ferricyanide/potassium bromide bleach over the cottage which lightened the highlights slightly and added extra pop. I re-fixed and then toned in selenium1:5 for 2 minutes. This gave me this print:
The selenium has added extra pop (I love selenium) but i wasn't quite happy with the print. I decided to go crazy and dig out the few sheets of warmtone paper i have, I felt that this print was worthy on going onto this expensive paper! I made an identical print and set the drydown compensation to 5% (drydown is the effect of fibre prints going darker when dry - a pain)! This time i fully toned in selenium (4:30). I did try pulling the print from the toner around at 2 minutes but it looked strange being a warm reddish colour all over with a grey sky on top. After all this work i was left with my final print which i think is my best print yet:
Kinlochleven Island
I decided to keep going and work on another print i thought could be good. This was taken whilst exploring around Glencoe. I went up a random road and ended up at the village of Kinlochleven. A lovely place that i'm pretty sure i could live in happily! It was raining pretty heavily when i was taking this but it was worth it as you'll see.
As before i decided to split grade print. I setup and made my soft test sheet:
I chose a base exposure time of 4 seconds and proceeded to make my hard exposure:
For the hard exposure i chose a base exposure of 16 seconds. I made a flat sheet of the two exposures together and came up with this:
Good but it needs some work. The top left corner is a bit dark and i want the final print to be darker and more ominous. I got to work figuring out what dodging and burning was required. During the soft exposure I added and extra 1 1/2 stops to the foreground and and extra 3/4 of a stop to the right, bottom and left edges of the print. I then switched to the hard exposure and dodged the top left corner for 1/3 of a stop and dodged the mountains in the distance on the right for 1 1/6 stop to balance them with the mountains on the right. I then added 1 5/6 to the sky and 1/2 a stop to the foreground. The top half of the sky then received and extra 1 1/2, the right corner got +1 stop and the bottom left and bottom right corners received an extra 1/3 of a stop. I then locally bleached the sky directly above the island with potassium ferricyanide/potassium bromide to emphasize the light coming from there.
After a dip in selenium i got this print which is much moodier and ominous:
I then switched to warmtone paper and made an identical print which is my final print (unfortunately when scanning i somehow cropped the very top of the print off - error):
I learnt a lot making these two prints. Firstly, it really pays to imagine what you want your final print to look like when you are exposing in camera. Secondly, it's good to make your test strips and rough prints then rest and come back to the final print at a later date, otherwise you rush to get it all done in one session and you don't get the best print you could have done. Thirdly, never underestimate the power of bleaching. Fourthly, warmtone paper is worth every penny. Fifthly, selenium toner remains the greatest thing in the world. Sixthly, Scotland is one heck of a place! Seventhly, and perhaps most importantly - never be afraid to get your camera out when it's mirky, grey, grim and wet.
Well i hope that's been interesting for some of you who read this blog (if indeed anyone does read this blog). I hope that my experiences will help you in some way. As always if you have any questions or comments then please feel free to get in touch - i love hearing from you all about your own printing and photography and i love learning new things from you all. Happy printing!
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